One post tagged with "winterization"

When the temperature plummets, preparing a vacant home for the cold is a critical process known as winterization. The goal is simple: prevent water in the home’s plumbing and heating systems from freezing, expanding, and causing catastrophic damage. In theory, it’s a straightforward checklist: drain the water, add antifreeze to traps, and shut everything down properly.

In practice, improper or insufficient winterization is a leading cause of burst pipes, ruptured equipment, and wrecked home systems. Ironically, the very act meant to protect a home can—if done poorly—cause the damage itself or create a situation where nobody notices a problem until it’s far too late.

In this article, we’ll explore how winterization (or a lack thereof) affects plumbing and HVAC systems, what can go wrong, the telltale signs of a failed job, and the steps to mitigate these expensive risks. Drawing on real-world examples from seasoned inspectors, we’ll uncover just how costly winter’s wrath can be when we fail to prepare correctly. Whether you’re a home inspector surveying a foreclosed property in January or a homeowner heading south for the season, understanding winterization is key to protecting a home’s vital infrastructure.

Burst Pipes: The Frozen Menace​

Perhaps the most common and dramatic failure is the burst water pipe. Water expands by about $9\%$ when it freezes. If trapped in a closed pipe, this expansion generates immense pressure that can easily split copper, plastic, or even steel. When the thaw comes, that split turns into a gusher. A single burst pipe can dump hundreds of gallons of water into a home in hours, leading to collapsed ceilings, ruined floors, and rampant mold growth.

Inspectors often encounter bank-owned or vacant homes that were supposedly winterized, yet find clear evidence of burst pipes. As one inspector in Wisconsin lamented, “Many times I find burst pipes in so-called winterized systems here.” This suggests the job was never done, wasn’t thorough, or someone interfered afterward—for instance, by turning the water back on without re-winterizing the system.

Common failure points include pipes in unheated areas:

• Exterior walls
• Crawlspaces
• Attics
• Poorly insulated basements

So, what does improper winterization look like? It might be as simple as shutting off the main water valve but failing to open faucets to drain the lines. Water gets trapped in low spots and elbows, and in a deep freeze, that’s all it takes. Or maybe the main lines were drained but an appliance was forgotten. The pumps and valves in a dishwasher or washing machine hold water that can freeze, crack the housing, and lead to major leaks. Toilets are another classic oversight. Simply flushing doesn't remove all the water; a few cups remain in the trap and tank bottom. Without antifreeze, the freezing water can easily crack the porcelain. A "winterized" home with a cracked toilet tank is a telltale sign of a job half-done.

Even fire sprinkler lines in attics, which require special antifreeze loops, can split if neglected. In short, any water left in any component is a ticking time bomb. This is why professionals use compressed air to blow out every line, open every valve, drain every fixture, and add non-toxic RV/Marine antifreeze (the pink stuff, rated for temperatures around $-50^{\circ}\text{F}$) into every trap, toilet, and appliance drain.

Heating System Woes​

Plumbing isn’t the only system at risk. Hydronic heating systems, like those with hot water radiators or radiant floor heat, can suffer catastrophic damage. If a boiler is simply shut off without being drained or protected, the water inside radiators and pipes will freeze. This can crack cast-iron radiators, split copper heating loops, and destroy the boiler’s heat exchanger or circulation pump.

When inspectors discuss how to winterize boilers, the consensus is surprising: the best method is to avoid it entirely. As one expert bluntly stated, “Don’t winterize. In addition to probably destroying the heating system, ‘winterizing’ destroys entire homes. It’s way better to keep the house conditioned, running minimum operations.” This highlights a core truth: a house left without heat in sub-freezing weather is inherently vulnerable. Keeping the heat on a minimal setting (e.g., $50^{\circ}\text{F}$) prevents far more problems than it costs in fuel. However, for foreclosed or bank-owned properties where utilities are off, a full winterization is the only option.

Consider this real-world horror story from an inspector: a property management company "winterized" a home but:

1. Forgot to pull the plug on the well pump, causing the pump’s housing to freeze and crack.
2. Forgot to drain the toilet tank, pouring antifreeze only in the bowl. The water in the tank froze, cracking the porcelain.
3. Forgot to turn off the breaker to the electric water heater after draining it. The heating elements fired in an empty tank and burned out instantly.

This trifecta of failures—a cracked pump, a broken toilet, and a fried water heater—perfectly illustrates how sloppy procedures lead directly to expensive, avoidable repairs.

Inadequate Winterization: What Inspectors Look For​

When examining a property during or after winter, inspectors are trained to spot the subtle clues of a botched winterization:

• Plumbing Damage: Obvious signs include split pipes with visible bulges or fine cracks. Fresh plumbing repairs (like new PEX or PVC patches in odd places) are also a red flag. Water stains on ceilings directly below bathrooms or kitchens strongly suggest a past leak from a frozen pipe. A cracked toilet tank or sink bowl is a classic sign of freeze damage.
• The Antifreeze Test: Properly winterized homes should have pink antifreeze in toilet bowls and all P-traps under sinks and tubs. If there's no pink liquid in a vacant winter home, it’s a warning sign. Inconsistent application—antifreeze in the toilets but not the sinks—suggests a rushed or incomplete job.
• Dry Taps and Damaged Fixtures: When re-pressurizing the system, a fixture that doesn’t flow may indicate a burst pipe that has been capped off. Leaking faucets or valves upon water restoration often mean their internal components were damaged by ice. Exterior hose bibs are especially vulnerable; a split may only reveal itself when you turn it on in the spring, causing water to gush inside the wall.
• HVAC Issues: A boiler with a pressure gauge reading zero means the system is empty—either by design or because of a leak. For forced-air systems, high-efficiency furnaces have condensate lines that can freeze and crack if not drained.
• General Neglect: Often, winter damage goes hand-in-hand with other signs of neglect, like gutters full of ice or snow blowing in through a broken window. It paints a picture of a home left entirely to the elements.

Mitigation and Best Practices​

So, how can you prevent these winter woes?

• For Homeowners: If your home will be unheated for an extended period, hire a qualified professional to winterize it. A complete job includes draining all lines (using compressed air), adding antifreeze to all traps and fixtures, draining the water heater (and turning off its breaker!), and addressing well systems and water softeners. For hydronic heat, the best option is to keep it running on a low setting. If you must shut it down, have a technician add the proper antifreeze to the closed loop. Don't cut corners—skipping one step undermines the entire process.
• For Inspectors and Buyers: When evaluating a winterized home, proceed with caution. When de-winterizing, open the main water valve slowly and have a second person walk through the house listening for the sound of spraying water. Be prepared to shut it off immediately. Advise your clients to budget for potential plumbing repairs, as small cracks may not leak until the system has been under pressure for a few days.

Modern technology like smart thermostats that alert you to temperature drops or Wi-Fi leak sensors can help, but they rely on power and internet, which a vacant home may not have.

The Real Cost of Cutting Corners​

A discussion on an inspector forum perfectly captures the problem. One post noted dryly, “Banks know even less about winterizing homes than they do about owning them,” and joked about the incompetent "Larry, Daryl, and Daryl" team often hired for the job. Another inspector recalled being offered $30 per house to winterize 3-5 homes a day—a clear recipe for rushed, low-quality work.

The moral is simple: if you want it done right, it will cost more than a quick, cheap job. Otherwise, someone down the line—often the new buyer—will be paying to fix a host of preventable damage.

Final Thoughts​

Improper winterization, or forgoing it entirely, can lead to a cascade of problems:

• Ruined plumbing and broken fixtures
• Damaged well pumps and equipment
• Destroyed water heaters and boilers
• Massive water damage and subsequent mold growth
• Thousands of dollars in repair expenses

For anyone responsible for a property during the winter, the choice is clear: either keep the systems running on low or perform a complete, professional winterization. Half-measures are an invitation to disaster. Leaving the heat on low is the best form of prevention. If that’s not an option, hire competent people who will follow a thorough checklist.

As one inspector wryly observed after seeing another botched job, “I can see where the problem starts.” It starts with cutting corners. A burst pipe can be as destructive to a home as a fire, but unlike an act of nature, it’s largely preventable. In the end, homes, like people, need protection from the cold.

Stay warm, and keep those pipes (and your wallet) safe from the freeze.